Want to add my January Jam 2024 setup sheet for the 17.5 class. This setup turned this car into my new favorite for the weekend. We got lucky to get the Saturday before the race for complete practice. This helped myself and other drivers groove the track in and try lots of things.
When we got there in the morning it was a dry track. Lower then Low bite is the best way I could say it. After a couple of warm up runs the car was (as I call it) spooling out on me. Way too much front bite and the spool was not happy. Easy thing to do is throw the diff in but that’s not race worthy, I knew it was small changes just to keep it stable to build the groove.
I put some Schumacher Gold springs on the front and just kept driving it in. As the day went on the track was growing faster. There was a few of us running out there but I was chasing the fast A12 and holding a tenth behind it. I was purely being out driven and to me that’s acceptable. This car was getting faster as the track came in.
When we left the night it was the A12 with the fast lap all day and my lesser experience driving still just a tenth off of him. Running scenarios through my mind as usual on the way home I remembered my springs were still golds. First thing the next morning I put the silvers back on and through a pack in to feel the track out.
Same tires as the night before and the car was on point for me. Cut me some freshies and gave them a few laps with the same pack just to break them in.
Qualifiers were not my friend though. First round the A12 was on 63 lap pace and I was right there behind him. Then traffic and a corner marshals foot. After putting all the electronics back in place and some glue work to the body I went back for round 2. This one was a bit better but playing cautious I worked my way back up to a 5th spot on the grid after a DNF.
The mains I was sitting 5th looking at some hungry drivers but 8 minutes is a pretty long time. Let it play out. By the time we hit the 3 minute mark I had myself up to 3rd and was still playing on the conservative side of the throttle. Once the 5 minute mark hit I started seeing second come into the picture. It was go time and the best way I can describe my throttle is – just a hair less. That was all it was for lifting, just a hair less then full and this car was taking it all.
I was chasing 2 A12’s and one I spent all day practicing with. That wasn’t on the menu, my experience just isn’t up to that level yet for 12scale. Second place though was getting closer and although I was on his bumper I was out driven. I tried everything to rattle him but he drove a clean line. My opportunities showed me this car was capable. I took the hardware for 3rd and couldn’t have been happier with any of the weekend.
This is for sure the best setup I’ve had on this car yet. And I hope it can help some of you find that sweet spot for your driving.
Continuing with my write ups for the inline kits but this time its the Eclispe5i kit. I played a solo run down to 360v2 this past Sunday. Jealous of the big dogs running Cleveland for the weekend I thought it would be a great time to try some things.
Two weeks prior I spent the weekend wrenching on the X12 inline kit and bouncing some runs with the Eclipse5i. I didnt put too much into the car for tuning but had enough that I was comfortable dropping it for a virgin race day. Half way to the track my brain reminded me I forgot my main box of tires. Strike one for being prepared. Being a hour drive I notched it up to track support and getting tires there. Always support your track first – and when you forget stuff an hour away.
Setup my pit and started charging. Went through my mental checklist of things with the car and sauced the tires. After the first pack warmed my dry tires up I went out with the second pack and some throttle. Having the same Orca 17.5 motor in my Eclipse5i as I did in my X12 I had ideas of lap times. The Schumacher picked right up with laps like my Xray, mid to low 11’s. I can work with that was my thinking.
17.5 is more my interest for a few personal reasons. I feel like 17.5 is a fast class where setup is more important then motors. Kind of like the old stock class before brushless. A good setup made the worse motor fast but a fast motor could never make a bad car handle. So for me the 17.5 is more of a Tuners class. Im not saying 13.5 is easier at all but you got a little more motor to make up for track errors.
But 17.5 isnt really the popular class at 360 and its understandable. The track size and bite level make 13.5 easy to handle. They seem to run it when enough drivers show up and 13.5 is the popular choice. Original thought was just run the 17.5 Orca with the Spec tires and work on the clock. The thought didnt last long as I went in the hobby shot and grabbed a 13.5 motor. No favorites but they did have the new Motiv MC5 and Ive always been a fan of their quality. From the shop to the car it went and got some gearing ideas from another fast driver.
The goal for the day – Keep the car in one piece and make notes of what not to do. All goals accomplished and very impressed with how it handled. Still sticking on the purple stripe spec tires it was time to qualify.
So first round I went out with what I feel is a soft setup. Silver front springs, 10k side dampers, Gold bump spring and opted to use the A12 0.6 side springs. I put a set on the Xray for its first run and felt I liked them. The A12 springs are taller then the stock Schumacher and Xray springs and non progressive. The non progressive to me feels smoother and more consistent. Also being a little taller I feel it smoothens out the side to side. Only catch is you will need the A12 spring holders or you can use the Xray ones, I prefered the X12 because of the longer grub screws.
First qualifier I was feeling out my throttle and battery situation. Kept the car in the line around the track and push on it every now and then. Just getting my toes wet with what the car was gonna do. Easy to drive and I had steam left in the tank since my gearing was off.
Second qualifier I went up a tooth and made some suspension changes. Thats where I started moving away from the track. My thinking was track bite is coming up so lets work at stepping springs up. I stepped my fronts up to Golds and can say the car felt unchanged. Still easy to drive and the gear up brought some speed up for me. Was my best feeling qualifier out of 3.
Now third round was where I sent the car out of any setup window. Leaving the gold fronts in place I next tried changing my gold bump spring to the nickle. In my head I was believing track bite is coming up so if I step up my springs the track will provide the bite. The learning part of that for me was the rear bite comes in faster and I developed a push. This caused me to add dual rate which then in turn causes me to scrub corner speed.
After 3rd round I noticed I was rolling the chassis and rubbing the carpet. I wasnt doing this all day and I was on bigger tires this time. I created my problem. My theory is my car gained rear bite faster then its front and I was fighting the carpet for traction. I was removing traction in the car instead of letting it use what was available.
Over all in 13.5 for my first time running it with this kit I was super pleased. Even with being on spec striped tires I dont feel like they held me back yet. They will be getting some better foams but not just yet.
I was able to attach video of my Q2 run. Its always great to watch old runs and just see where mistakes were made. Im also attaching my setup sheet for this weekend. Next visit will be in 2 weeks with just a side spring change. I do want to step down to the A12 silver side springs as my only change.
For now heres some video to watch – no fancy paint, just a yellow body that leads the field off to start.
Never sitting idle we have some new parts to showcase.
First is our Brass Lipo Weight cut to fit inside the Lipo pocket on our Eclipse5i inline kit. Designed to sit under your lipo and inside the milled pocket. Being only .5mm thick and weighing 14grams this plate can help lower CG and bring the car up to minimal weight.
This is designed and cut for our pocket which is 6mm longer then other cars with lipo baskets. It can fit others with flat inline chassis or Touring cars running shorty packs. It can also be modified with minimal dremel work to fit A12 and Roche P12V cars.
Our other release is more of an update to our Eclipse4 chassis kit. We updated our design to use a pivot change that has worked well on our E510 chassis kits. This will now use the stock front plate and all other stock pieces but come with a new bumper and rear lower pod.
We shortened the front edge of the chassis by 3mm and pulled the sides in to help with carpet clearance in corners. We also trimmed up the rear area to shave some grams off the overall weight. By moving the rear pivot back we found this generated more natural steering in the car. This helps dial back the dual rate in the radio needed for steering and causing the inner front tire to scrub corner speeds.
Kit comes with our quality carbon fiber chassis, a new 3mm rear lower pod and a new front bumper. The front bumper keeps the body mounts at their stock location so you can use existing bodies. This was the kit used in the GT12RT class at the 2023 NYGP @360v2 for TQ and our drivers finishing 2nd and 9th in the A-main.
So we have created a new section for all our Inline kit setup sheets. It is broken into 2 sections, 1 for the Xray X12 and 1 for the Eclipse5i.
We will update our lists with Track, Race and LiveRC links for the event.
This will also be available for the public to email us with their info as well. Lets share setups for all the drivers who are running these kits.
If you would like to email us yours you can do so at: Krazedbuilds@yahoo.com – Please give us your full name, any racer nickname, the event, the track and any LiveRC link you have for the event. We will be more then happy to host your setup sheets.
You know indoor carpet season is here when we start bringing some new products out. After a solid season on our Eclipse5 we want to add another. The Eclipse5i, the ‘i’ standing for Inline, is something we have been working on for some time.
The Eclispe5 is incredible in stock kit form. There is no denying that with all the victories that #Schumacher has put on this platform. This isnt an attempt at redesigning the wheel or saying its better. This is our entry into offering drivers another option to try. Will it work? Will it win? Could it be better for you?
The first two we know the answer is Yes. That last one though really is only determined by the driver, You. What we do know is what we changed, added and how we feel it benefits.
Lets start with whats needed. First is the donor kit, an #Eclipse5. From this kit you will use almost everything minus the chassis, front plate and lower rear pod pieces.
But dont look away #Eclipse4 drivers, there is still a way to use this kit with your car too. This will only require 2 extra parts from the Eclipse5 car. You will need the #U8459 Rear Spring Hanger and the #U8461 C/F Damper Mount. The rest of the E4 stuff will be the same as the E5.
You will also need some more of the threaded brass, or alloy, inserts that come with the kits. Yes, you can reuse the old ones if you know the tricks to getting them out. They never seem to fit good after being pressed in once though. We recommend just getting new ones for this build. If you prefer Brass kit ones – #U7689 and if you like the blacked out Alloy ones – #U8065. You will need 18 of them if you have an E5 donor. If its an E4 and you get the extra E5 pieces then you will need 4 additional ones, 22 total.
Little disclaimer into the threaded inserts. We Do Not recommend trying to press these into the carbon with pliers. Generally you will risk splitting the carbon layers. For those not aware of how Schumacher recommends installation here is a picture showing the best technique. Also – Pay attention to orientation when doing this to multiple pieces. The side link wings and side braces will need this done opposite of each other.
So lets start front to back …… Bumper, Ya not much exciting about this. Attaches separately to the chassis just as the E5 did. We made sure to keep the stock body mount locations the same on all of them. This can help make body mounting easier and keep all those practice bodies. You can also use the kit or other brand printed bumpers and know they fit the mounting holes.
The new front axle plate will use the stock pivot ball mounting hardware. This is the first big sign of difference. With the limited real estate on an Inline Chassis we had to flip the servo. Nothing not normal about this anymore.
We kept the stock track width with our plate and axle alignment. You will still use the kit 1/1.5* or our .5* camber straps. All the kit kingpin and steering knuckle hardware is re-used. Mounting the servo we leave 3 options with one being the front plate brace. We modeled our cars using the Sanwa SXR and MKS HV50P flat mount style servos. Drivers will be able to mount those servos directly to the chassis. For servos with out those flat mounts you will still be able to use the kit hardware and flat headed screws. You will have to shim the servo for your Ackerman alignment but its useable.
**Builders Note: The kit servo saver is absolutely useable. Personally we recommend going with the Xray servo saver and the #Sagami RC Fab xr-007 Alloy part. This can help make link changes easier.
The 3rd option is mounting the servo directly to the front axle stiffener brace. This brace serves two functions. The first intended one is using it as a tuning tool for front flex. Yes we know, using a camber strap can also be a stiffener. But a camber strap isn’t meant for that since its used to bend the carbon for camber. Our stiffener helps brace the entire front plate and ranges from no flex to max stiff.
Theres 4 screws attaching this brace to the front plate using four 10mm posts. Using No plate would give you the most flex and match the kit feel. Relying on the camber strap to stiffen it some. If you used the 2 screws furthest forward on the brace you would stiffen the middle portion of the front plate. This would reduce some flex but still leave some at the king pin areas. If you were to use the 2 screws inline with the king pins this would give almost the stiffest feeling we felt. All your corner load is focused around those king pin areas. This wouldn’t increase your steering but give you more of a direct feel of it.
** Builders Note: If you choose to mount your servo to this brace we highly recommend using the 2 screws inline with the king pins. Mounting the servo there will make front end work a bit simpler remain inline with caster changes. The servo will be angled. Be aware of this when making ride height changes, this may dip your servo saver below the chassis or interfere with electronics after mounting. You can use stock kit mounts if wanted or grab a set of AMX A12 short posts.
**Builders Tip: Included with our kit are the four 10mm aluminum posts for the front brace. You dont have to use them and depending on your servo mounting you may be able to use the kit posts for the side braces. The stock kit posts from the E5 are 8mm tall. You could also try the Roche 7mm standoffs, again if you have the clearance. Just helpful FYI for options.
Speaking of side braces, lets see what we did. Following our other inline kit we chose to do the same with them. Every little bit of CG we can get lower can only help in some way shape or form. The side braces will take 2 of the threaded inserts each. Pay attention to sides as they will need to be opposite of each other. The forward most hole can be used as a flex tuning option. Screw In – Stiffer …. Screw Out – Add Flex. Think of them as using or not using the two screws in the front of your kit braces. The rear insert we recommend using all the time. This really has no effect on flex but helps with keep a tweak free setup.
Now on those side braces is where the link mounts will get attached. These will be 2 similar looking pieces and take 3 threaded inserts each. Again, they will need to be opposite of each other so careful what side you put them in. We will include Six 4mm spacers for this part. Place the spacers on top of the brace and tighten the wings down to them securely. When installing your side links you will need a .5mm shim between the link ball and the wing. This will give you rear steer similar to stock. 1mm shim will remove some and no shim will equal .5mm of rear steer.
**Builders Note: In our kit we will include link wings matching the stock chassis 2* of link sweep. We also have an optional 4* of link sweep that will angle the links inward slightly more. Doing this can give more in corner steering. Driver preference depending on track layouts.
The center damper tube is always the interesting part of this car for some reason. Figuring out mounting wasnt that difficult. Taking an idea off our other kit we went with the same bridge idea. Included you will get 2 alloy posts and a carbon fiber bridge. This will need a single threaded insert but can take two for options. Using the hole that is most inline with the mounting holes you will be in the factory kit location. If you wanted to run the damper longer, more forward, then you could use the optional hole mounted forward.
**Builders Note: Running the damper longer we recommend using the #U4849 pieces from the Atom/Icon kit. This will extend the tube by 8mm and retain full dampening. The other option this bridge can do is running a shorter damper. Spinning the bridge around so the optional hole is rearward will move the tube back 6mm. Note to that though is you will need shorter ball ends to be used. If not then your damper will be fully collapsed and no dampening.
Lets look at the cross brace now. So many important things are happening with this one single piece. This will take 6 of the threaded inserts. All of them will mount on the same side and be on the underside of it when mounted. This will mount to the chassis using the stock kit alloy posts.
Your side dampers will mount to it, the tweak springs are next and finally the Lipo cradle. The lipo cradle can be adjusted by a small amount but we recommend starting back. The threaded inserts used for this need to be mounted on the underside so the shoulder can be used as a spacer. We want the cradle to sit a bit lower to be sure it secures various lipo cases out there. Then screw the cradle up into the inserts. Just snug, its really only used for holding the lipo inline.
**Builders Tip: This would be a good time to play with electronics. With this much of the kit together we recommend setting up your servo. After your steering links are on and drivers happy, put the cross brace on and lipo in. This will begin to show you how much space you have. On ours we used an Orca OE1s esc and typical Sanwa RX. With the Lipo back it is a tight fit but still able to remove our battery. Tekins and 1S HW speedos will have a bit more room where you could shift the battery forward a bit if you wanted. This is really the best time to look at electronic mounting in our opinion. Also we recommend a 200mm sensor wire. Depending on exc used, a 175mm could work but 200mm gives you some wiggle room.
The last thing about the cross brace is your body mounts. These, like the front bumper, are in the stock location and at the stock height. Drop those old bodies right on.
So with our kit we include a new E5 rear lower pod. This is where the E4 cars will work when you use the two E5 parts mentioned in the beginning. So we did a geometry change to our car that we found worked very well on our E410 and E510 chassis kits. We moved the pivot mount assembly back 1mm on the lower pod and the chassis. This helped generate some more natural steering in our cars and increase corner speeds. You still adjust your roll centers by adding and removing shims.
And onto our chassis. Machined from 7075-T6 Alloy and hand cleaned giving them that brushed aluminum look. As mentioned on the lower pod piece we moved the chassis pivot mount back. We also opened up the two holes to access the lower pod pivot screws. We felt this makes changing roll center shims easier. Remove and replace the screws easier with out removing the entire pod.
Under the lipo area we milled the pocket down .5mm to help lower some CG. The largest piece of weight now a little lower. Or if drivers want they can run the popular .5mm thin weight plates with out raising the CG higher the a kit would be. We also made sure to include the balance holes like all other chassis, front – middle – rear locations.
Under the servo we milled it open to clear the popular servo savers and the kit one. There are also 2 notched inline with center in this spot to help with alignment of servos. On center front and rear helping to give a defined line.
From flipping the servo around this actually lengthens chassis. To help reduce corner scrub when running at minimum ride heights we worked the corners inward. This angle actually begins at the rear front plate mounting location and steps inward twice. This helps assure the chassis is contact free when running front tires in the 39mm diameters.
We are super excited with this kit coming out. A lot of notes from our own E4 and E5’s went into this. As well we took a lot of what we learned in our original X12 kit and from our new version. Trying to keep things simplistic we also pushed to retain as much tuning as we could.
As always we Thank All of the support on our projects and parts. New ideas bring innovations and we know this is another idea that can bring positive options to drivers. For now its just pictures for the teasing. Kits are being packed and will be available on November 3rd.
Building off the success of the original inline X12 we did almost 3 years ago its now time to release our Gen2 of the Chassis conversion. Back in 2021 after the release of the newly designed X12 we worked with a few drivers to make an inline kit. Sending 3 of them off and hearing positive feedback we put it to production. The kit was a success for us but like everything else they slowed down so we turned them into cut on orders. Messages were still coming in over the last couple years asking for them and overall we sold a couple hundred.
In that time we did work on a Gen2 of it with some small but improved changes. Some testing but we never pushed it much. Now with the release of the 24 coming this was the time to revisit the project.
Pulling our notes and designs out of our hard drive we didn’t need much to tweak. Our main goal on this Gen2 was versatility. How do we make one kit fit the 21,22,23 and 24 year kits? Well thankfully the main and important pieces haven’t changed for any of those models.
The rear pivot, side links, front axles and front plate mounting hardware have all remained the same. Add the rear pod assembly of the kit you have and we have it done.
So what is different? What do you need? Lets start with something that you will need additional to your donor car. In 23 they came out with some nice aluminum threaded inserts. We chose not to use these for 2 reasons. First they dont stay in place and we felt can cause a tweak issue after hitting something. Second is they are expensive to replace. We chose to go with the Schumacher pressed inserts. They stay in place and are much more budget friendly. You will need 2 packages of U7689 Brass OR 3 packs of U8065 Black Alloy ones. They come 10 to a pack for brass and 8 to a pack for Alloy and range from 4$ for the brass or 14$ for the Alloy ones. You will need 17 total per car and we will note through this write up how many and locations.
**Do Not Press these into the carbon with pliers. You Will Split the layers. Schumacher Has a very simple way of doing this and it has worked well on all our models of cars. Simply take a 3mm motor screw and 4/5 plain steel washers, stack the washers onto the screw and place through the hole for the insert. Now thread the insert on with knurls towards the hole. Tighten the screw until the insert is pulled into the carbon and seats against its shoulder. If you’re a little shy about doing this you can always CA the edge of the carbon pieces prior for that extra layer of security.
So onto the car itself.
You will use all the rear pod pieces from your donor car, including the lower pivot assembly. The first cross over parts are the two rear standoff posts for the cross brace. You will need to use the ones matching the year pod you have, but not the actual brace. The 21 and 22 models use the same two brace mounts but in 23 they changed it. The earlier two years were taller so they could interfere with a pod from 23.
*Builders Tip: You ‘could’ use the brace mounts from a 23 with a pod from 21/22 and run your dampers under the pod top plate. In 23 they lowered their pod top but make you run the dampers on top, raising some CG points. We dont recommend trying the opposite, this may cause the damper tubes to bind.
Next in our kit is the center shock mounting. We left you with 3 options for tuning. Included are two 20mm alloy posts. These are for the shock bridge. The shock bridge has two holes for inserts. The shallow hole, almost inline with the two mounting holes on the end, will put your shock in the stock kit location. If you wanted to use the forward hole you would need a threaded piece roughly 8mm long to extend your shock. We dont provide this but again Schumacher (U4849) does make something we recommend for it.
*Builders Tip: For the shock bridge you will need a short threaded ball stud. Stock ball studs for these kits are 4.2mm and we recommend one with 4mm of threads at most. For our prototype we cut one down and used a 2mm shim to keep the shock from touching the battery. We do know though Xray makes a short one you could use, its the #372649 ball end. After installing verify the threads will not touch your lipo, this could cause tweak problems or worse.
Next are the side links. In our kit there are two side link wings as we call them. These wings will need 3 threaded inserts each. **Be aware when installing them to the link orientation, they will go in opposite sides of the wings for left and right locations. We will include six 4mm spacers to mount these up from the chassis. This will help bring the side links to their correct height with about .5mm of rear steer in them. If you want to flatten the links out just add .5mm shim between the link and wing when mounting.
**Builders Tip: The wings we include will have the standard 2* of link sweep your donor car has when using the outer holes. We do offer an optional 4* link sweep set as a tuning option and are noted by 1dot milled onto their surface. These will match the inner hole on your donor chassis and can give an increased in-corner steering.
Lets roll onto the rear cross brace. This will need 4 of the threaded inserts, two for the dampers and two for your tweak screws. All four will get mounted through the same side and want them to be on the bottom, no different then the 23 kit inserts. This is also used for keeping your lipo inline and secure with an included smaller o-ring.
**Builders Tip: Test fit your lipos before mounting. Be sure they fit in the rearward section secure. They should be a little loose for float but not have to be pushed in. If they seem a bit tight you can use a small file (recommended under running water) to sand each side. Carbon dust is bad therefor the water will help keep it out of the air.
So in 23 the kit was optimized by lowering the side braces down .5mm to help with the CG. We took our kit and dropped the side braces directly on the chassis. You will need 2 threaded inserts on each rail, again paying attention to orientation. These will install top down so when attaching the screws they will pull them against the lower chassis. These can still be used as a tuning tool for flex. The very front of the brace will mount under your front axle plate. The two inserts after that can help stiffen of loosen the chassis up depending how many you use. The rear of these side braces will go around the rear cross brace mounts helping to keep a tweak free setup.
The Front plate will use the same pivot balls and mounting hardware from your donor car. As said before, these are all the same pieces for each year. When installing these be sure they fit snug but should not require any use of pliers. Tooling wear does make some a bit tight just as the factory ones can be. We recommend a snug finger push in feel to them. This, we felt, still lets the front flex a small amount and also not damage the plastic. If yours feels like they wont seat all the way in with out excessive pressure then stop. You can use a small file or some sand paper, again under water, and sand the holes open a little more. Just enough that you can push them in and they dont fall out.
Our front plate also keeps the stock width and also allows you to use the steel lower arm braces #372109. These can help with flex and protection during impacts.
**Builders Note: When figuring out castor here is some helpful info. Our side braces are 2.5mm thick. Per the instructional manual if you use 2mmF and 0mmR shims you get 3* of caster. With our kit and the math you would need to add a .5mm shim to each of the rear mounts to equal the kit 3*.
1.5* caster = 0mmF – 1mmR
3* caster = 0mmF – .5mmR
4.5* caster = .5mmF – .5mmR
6* caster = 1.5mmF – .5mmR
The kit ride height shims will not work on our kit. Be aware that caster changes can/will effect ride heights. You will need to alter shims separately from the caster ones to alter ride heights. Another way is to use the shims under the steering blocks. Be mindful with these also. What ever you add or remove you will need to add or remove from above the steering block. These shims also effect droop in the front ends.
Being orientated how it is you will reverse your servo and run it forward. Theres no way around this to gain the real estate needed for electronics. Our kit was designed around the popular Sanwa SXR servo but has been fitted for testing with the MKS HV50P. We honestly do not know about the PowerHD many use but we left 3 options for drivers to mount. There are slots on the chassis for direct servo mounting, or you can use your kit servo mounts. There are also slots on the upper front plate brace. These will align directly with the chassis slots.
**Builders Tip: When using the front plate brace to mount your servo be aware of two things. First – Be sure to use the two brace screw holes closest inline with the king pins. This will help with flex not effecting the steering. Second – Your servo will stay at the same angle as your caster. Be mindful of this when making Ackerman or bump steer changes. We also recommend no matter what servo you choose to use the Sagami RC Fab XR-007 Alloy servo horn. This will give you the best tuning for adjustments. We also milled in small notches on center for you to use with servo alignment.
Front plate bracing, we did this more for stiffness tuning. Just like used on your stock kits we made sure this brace can alter front plate flex for different track conditions. No brace would give you the most flex. The two forward most screws would give a medium amount of flex. And all four mounting screws would give you the stiffest feeling and responsive front end.
If you are using a 21/22 donor car you can use the extra 10.5mm side brace mounts for yours. If you are using a 23 donor car then you will need to use #373075 (2 packs) for the front brace to clear the servo.
The front bumper will use the last 2 of the 17 inserts needed. Using the inserts to mount this way allows us to make bumper changes easier. Also with no contact to the front plate it can help crashes from effecting tweak. We also kept the body mounts in their kit locations. We did this for all 4 body mounts. Depending on your wheelbase of the donor car this should allow for you to drop a body right on. This will help make bumper fitting/trimming easier as well, or mounting any of the TPU printed ones out there.
And last but not least, our chassis. A lot went into this Gen2 for the X12. Driver input from conversions we sold and even from drivers on different cars. First was how to make it work for 3 years worth of kits.
Knowing how important CG is with these cars we added a milled Lipo pocket thats .5mm lower then the top of the chassis. Biggest piece of weight in the car down a bit more. This also leaves it open to adding those .5mm weight plates that drivers use to meet minimum when needed.
We tackled the front corner dip and rubs from running such small tires as well. Angling the corners back helps keep the chassis at minimum ride height and not rubbing during cornering. Helping keep those speeds up instead of in the carpet. All plates are of course made from quality 7075-T6 Alloy. Hand cleaned and deburred we do like the brushed aluminum look they have. Unfortunately Anodizing isnt something we have access to so all our chassis have always had that brushed look. But it does leave it raw for drivers to have them done or as many, some nice polishing work for that shine.
Our Official web site launch is November 26th – all orders will be available directly on our site. Listings and prices have already been loaded if you want to browse over for a look. No pictures yet, we’ll let the teaser pics sit here until then.
As always – Thank you to every single person supporting us and our products. This has always been a business goal of making things that work and not just sell. Almost 10 years of parts in the 30+ years of being in the hobby. It really is a sport of competition among friends.
As we get more things off our design list we just keep bringing them to the catalog. Today is the launch of a few Schumacher Eclipse5 parts.
First up is the small option of our popular .5* degree camber strap. This strap has been a fast mover in our Eclispe4 line, we adapted it to the Eclipse5 now. Simple and small but very effective.
The next is our Eclipse 510 Chassis kit. We’ve been testing a few things on our older E4’s and brought it to our 5’s now. We trimmed some off the main chassis itself to save weight. We also moved the rear pivot location for improved corner rotation. Great for Spec racing where tenths are most valuable on the clock. Another added touch is easily adjusting the rear roll center shims. We have opened up the rear pod screw holes allowing you to remove them. As well you can adjust the battery stop on the cross brace from the chassis bottom. Function and Tuning all made easy.
Cut from our popular high quality carbon fiber you get the main chassis and new rear lower pod. All remaining stock pieces are direct bolt ons.
It may seem like we’re late to the game with these. We aren’t. Late to production by our standards but if you have been following us you know why. With moving and getting the machines set back up its taken a little time.
We actually had these in the test stage before our move. There was about a have dozen sets out there. The big push was from these guys to get them made but they were keeping quiet they had them.
These are the same braced arms we came to market with originally. Same quality carbon fiber but these narrow the track width 1mm per side.
Improved rotation on technical tracks and more responsive to driver input were just a few of the gains drivers saw. High bite tracks can really benefit from the improved response time to direction changes. And we made them easily identifiable by adding a small thru hole in each arm. Tucked over by the shock mounting screws, there’s no worry about mixing them up on a car.
Catching up on some designs we had prior to our shop moving we bring another. Our Suitcase handle single piece top deck for the Schumacher Mi8.
Designed to benefit low/medium bite asphalt tracks. We believe the key is in the suitcase handle middle. Providing both for/aft control while also keeping a consistent torsional tension. With out limiting any flex this torsional tension helps balance front and rear flex mid corner.
Comes in our quality 1.6mm Carbon Fiber – Does Not fit the HGT conversion
In Stock and Ready to be checked out – Krazed Shop
